All surfers know this, especially those who have just started surfing - the NOSEDIVE. A nosedive happens when you paddle towards the wave full of anticipation and then you tip over (over your nose) and you have a wonderful wipeout. It doesn't always feel good. I'll show you a few ideas here to put an end to this, and I can already tell you one thing - leaning further back on the surfboard is not the answer.
TOO FAR FORWARDProbably the most common reason is that a surfer is positioned too far forward on the board when paddling for a wave. This excess weight at the front of the board causes the tip of the board to dip into the wave as it picks you up.
TOO FAR BACKNow you might think that the logical consequence would be to simply position yourself a little further back, which is just a natural reaction, but this leads to more nose dives rather than fewer. The reason is simply that the "tipping point" is much steeper, which means that the moment you "tip" your board, it becomes so steep that you are even more likely to do a nose dive. If you are too far back, you are slower to paddle, the wave takes you later, and that means the wave is steeper, all of which leads to a more likely nose dive.
The sweet spot Neither too far forward nor too far back is a good choice, which means you have to find the best position for you. This is of course a bit more difficult when you are practicing, but if your surf instructor is watching, he can tell you exactly where your chin or hands should be, and I recommend that you just make a mark so that you can orient yourself. Some people just make a line with colored wax, I used a waterproof pen on my board, it won't come out, but I was in the right position :)
Get into the wave earlier: The later you get into the green wave, the steeper it becomes. To reduce the likelihood of a nosedive, it is advisable to take the wave earlier, which of course also means paddling earlier and more intensively, and in the right position.
Keep your back arched. The more you can arch your back when paddling, the better control and more room to maneuver you have. When you arch your back, you can lie a little further forward and, once the wave starts to pick you up, you can put more weight on the front of the board faster by bringing your chin down. This "boost" ensures that you catch the wave at an earlier stage when it is still flatter. When you put your weight forward, the back of the surfboard goes up - AND THAT'S GOOD! Because then it ensures that the wave and all its power takes you with it and pushes you forward!!
The take off. Many beginners in particular wait until the wave pushes a little before they do the take off, according to the motto “only when I feel safe”. And so you slide down the wave on your belly and do the take off - or the take off attempt many times later - which often leads to the wave being steeper - and bang - nosedive. Here you have to commit. That means, the moment the wave pushes - do the TAKE OFF!! All or nothing! Waiting doesn't help and only makes everything worse. For this reason, I always recommend practicing the take off at home and doing it so often that you have internalized and automated the take-off movement so much that you no longer have to think about it and just go! I know it's a scary moment, but if you know that it is BETTER to do it sooner rather than later, it helps.
That's it - it doesn't get any better the longer you wait ;) It's much safer to take the wave at the top and stand on your feet on the surfboard, rather than sliding down a little on your stomach and only then doing the take off. So tip: practice your take off at home!!!
The last tip. Beginners in particular look straight ahead when they do the take off because it gives you the feeling that it is the safest way to avoid a nose dive, but it is the steepest way. So try to approach the wave at a slight angle, which sounds complicated, but actually only needs a small adjustment -> don't look down or forward, but to the side when taking off. This small change alone will ensure that you don't fall straight down, because when your head turns, your shoulder and upper body turn with it, and that is your steering. So just don't look at your feet when taking off, but in the direction you want to run.
Apply these little tips and the days of nose diving are over. The great thing is that once you have committed to doing the take off earlier and have experienced how safer and more relaxed it all feels, the easier it will be for you to do it again and that way you will get out of the nose diving spiral ;)
What can you do at home?Practice the take off and look in the direction you want to surf. This is something you can practice at home. It sounds simple and easy, but I can tell you that if you don't automate and practice looking in the direction you want to surf, you'll quickly forget it when you're in the real wave. In my other blog I have a video on how you can practice the take off at home.
But the very best tip: Come to Portugal in September, where I'm organizing a surf retreat for and with the community, lasting a week, where we don't just go surfing, but also learn a lot of theory and much more, like workouts that will increase your strength and flexibility, which you need for surfing. I've included the link for the surf retreat here, come and surf with us!!!
I wish you a relaxing training until the next surf.
Cheers, Costa
